18 December 2002
22 November 2002
Fourth and last week in Morocco, Friday, 15–Friday, 22 November
Friday, 15 November, Marrakech: Green Ice, continued; more rain; take-away dinner from Restaurant le Port.
Saturday, 16 November, Marrakech: Samir visited; dinner at N’zaha with Youssef.
Sunday, 17 November, Marrakech: N’zaha with Youssef, Simo, goofy-looking Mohammed; Polly returned; dinner with Polly at Djemaâ al-Fna, biggest tajine in the world; wandered in concentric circles; blue turban day at Belhaj.
Monday, 18 November, Marrakech: Djemaâ al-Fna, continued; walked down street near Cusabine Mosque; drinks at N’zaha; watched billiard game in Kebir café; dinner at Belhaj with Lankan woman; saw Nouredine; Cybernet Bab Agnaou.
Tuesday, 19 November, Marrakech: Djemaâ al-Fna, continued; drinks with Polly and Hafida at Moustafa’s restaurant.
Wednesday, 20 November, Marrakech:
Thursday, 21 November, Marrakech:
Friday, 22 November, Marrakech, Casablanca, London, New York City:
Saturday, 16 November, Marrakech: Samir visited; dinner at N’zaha with Youssef.
Sunday, 17 November, Marrakech: N’zaha with Youssef, Simo, goofy-looking Mohammed; Polly returned; dinner with Polly at Djemaâ al-Fna, biggest tajine in the world; wandered in concentric circles; blue turban day at Belhaj.
Monday, 18 November, Marrakech: Djemaâ al-Fna, continued; walked down street near Cusabine Mosque; drinks at N’zaha; watched billiard game in Kebir café; dinner at Belhaj with Lankan woman; saw Nouredine; Cybernet Bab Agnaou.
Tuesday, 19 November, Marrakech: Djemaâ al-Fna, continued; drinks with Polly and Hafida at Moustafa’s restaurant.
Wednesday, 20 November, Marrakech:
Thursday, 21 November, Marrakech:
Friday, 22 November, Marrakech, Casablanca, London, New York City:
14 November 2002
Third week in Morocco, Friday, 8–Thursday, 14 November
Friday, 8 November, Marrakech:
Saturday, 9 November, Marrakech: Kebir café was crowded; Âbdelkerim (Baguira) visited; dinner at Mbarek; wandered with Polly.
Sunday, 10 November, Marrakech: drinks at Âbdelmajid with Polly and Samir while Mohammed wrote a letter; Ghadouan visited; dinner at Chez Mohammed and many people said hello; more drinks at Âbdelmajid; Polly left for France.
Monday, 11 November, Marrakech: Internet Iris; Kebir: Hafida wore lovely coat; dinner at Chez Mohammed, Hassane wore two hats; drinks at Belhaj.
Tuesday, 12 November, Marrakech: Internet Iris with Mohammed from Âbdelmajid and Âdel from Meslouhi; long walk with Saïd who used to live in Connecticut: mellah, kasba, royal palace etc.; dinner at Meslouhi.
Wednesday, 13 November, Marrakech: drinks at Belhaj and N’zaha with Samir; Internet Iris with Âdel from Meslouhi; deaf Djemal visited; walked downtown with Saïd; dinner at Belhaj.
Thursday, 14 November, Marrakech: another walk with Saïd through medina to Bab Doucala and café thereabouts; Djemaâ al-Fna; mugged and camera stolen on Moulaï Hassane Street near Daurade du Sud restaurant; various police stations; outrageous storm; take-away dinner from Bella Pizza, dessert at Green Ice, both in the Milennium Complexe.
Saturday, 9 November, Marrakech: Kebir café was crowded; Âbdelkerim (Baguira) visited; dinner at Mbarek; wandered with Polly.
Sunday, 10 November, Marrakech: drinks at Âbdelmajid with Polly and Samir while Mohammed wrote a letter; Ghadouan visited; dinner at Chez Mohammed and many people said hello; more drinks at Âbdelmajid; Polly left for France.
Monday, 11 November, Marrakech: Internet Iris; Kebir: Hafida wore lovely coat; dinner at Chez Mohammed, Hassane wore two hats; drinks at Belhaj.
Tuesday, 12 November, Marrakech: Internet Iris with Mohammed from Âbdelmajid and Âdel from Meslouhi; long walk with Saïd who used to live in Connecticut: mellah, kasba, royal palace etc.; dinner at Meslouhi.
Wednesday, 13 November, Marrakech: drinks at Belhaj and N’zaha with Samir; Internet Iris with Âdel from Meslouhi; deaf Djemal visited; walked downtown with Saïd; dinner at Belhaj.
Thursday, 14 November, Marrakech: another walk with Saïd through medina to Bab Doucala and café thereabouts; Djemaâ al-Fna; mugged and camera stolen on Moulaï Hassane Street near Daurade du Sud restaurant; various police stations; outrageous storm; take-away dinner from Bella Pizza, dessert at Green Ice, both in the Milennium Complexe.
07 November 2002
Second week in Morocco, Friday, 1–Thursday, 7 November
Friday, 1 November, Marrakech: Met the two Youssefs at N’zaha; Polly ordered table at Mr. Fouad’s store; dinner at Belhaj, Rachid temporarily fired; bumped into Hicham in lovely new park; more food at Mbarek.
Saturday, 2 November, Marrakech: sat in park in front of the Koutoubia; Salman Khan movie at Kebir café, Âdel flirted with me; moved to Résidence d’Atlas in one petit taxi; dinner at Mbarek with southern Lebanese men.
Sunday, 3 November, Marrakech: Kebir café with Hafida and Naïma; dinner with Polly at Islane.
Monday, 4 November, Marrakech: Belhaj, my apartment, Diamant Noir with Samir; Kebir café: Kuch kuch hota hai, Egyptian film, more henna from Hafida, cigarette seller’s daughter had yoğurt on her face; again returned telephone to Samir in Guéliz; take-away lunch from Chickenland; Marjane with Polly; drinks at #42 Djemaâ al-Fna restaurant, Belhaj and Mbarek.
Tuesday, 5 November, Marrakech: (First night of Ramadan.) N’zaha with Samir and Âbdoula; watched Mbarek close; dinner party which never happened; bought compact discs at Kebir; Djemaâ al-Fna, including #42; saw younger Youssef.
Wednesday, 6 November, Marrakech: (First day of Ramadan.) Kebir café, Salman Khan movie; visiting various restaurants at Djemaâ al-Fna; plastic bags from cassette man Âbdelrahim.
Thursday, 7 November, Marrakech: Kebir café with Polly, Dilvale dulhaniya le jayenge.
Saturday, 2 November, Marrakech: sat in park in front of the Koutoubia; Salman Khan movie at Kebir café, Âdel flirted with me; moved to Résidence d’Atlas in one petit taxi; dinner at Mbarek with southern Lebanese men.
Sunday, 3 November, Marrakech: Kebir café with Hafida and Naïma; dinner with Polly at Islane.
Monday, 4 November, Marrakech: Belhaj, my apartment, Diamant Noir with Samir; Kebir café: Kuch kuch hota hai, Egyptian film, more henna from Hafida, cigarette seller’s daughter had yoğurt on her face; again returned telephone to Samir in Guéliz; take-away lunch from Chickenland; Marjane with Polly; drinks at #42 Djemaâ al-Fna restaurant, Belhaj and Mbarek.
Tuesday, 5 November, Marrakech: (First night of Ramadan.) N’zaha with Samir and Âbdoula; watched Mbarek close; dinner party which never happened; bought compact discs at Kebir; Djemaâ al-Fna, including #42; saw younger Youssef.
Wednesday, 6 November, Marrakech: (First day of Ramadan.) Kebir café, Salman Khan movie; visiting various restaurants at Djemaâ al-Fna; plastic bags from cassette man Âbdelrahim.
Thursday, 7 November, Marrakech: Kebir café with Polly, Dilvale dulhaniya le jayenge.
31 October 2002
First week in Morocco, Friday, 25–Thursday, 31 October
Friday, 25 October, Cairo, London, Casablanca, Marrakech: Taxi driver Rachid waited with us in front of McDonald’s; searching for apartment thanks to crazy Moustafa and Âdel.
Saturday, 26 October, Marrakech: reunion of old friends at Belhaj restaurant, Djemaâ al-Fna; visited Âzize’s house with Âbdelrahim; moved to next temporary apartment with crazy Moustafa and Âdel; met Mr. Hassane; N’zaha restaurant, tea with Âbdelâli in his new store, Djemaâ al-Fna.
Sunday, 27 October, Marrakech: Belhaj, Djemaâ al-Fna; Âzize and Âbdelrahim visited our apartment; Mr. Hassane: man in towel at Yasmine building; Samir visited.
Monday, 28 October, Marrakech: Samir’s visit; purchased telephone from Samir at N’zaha; dinner at Belhaj; visited Mbarek restaurant; N’zaha: Âbdelhadi, returned broken telephone to Samir, “belching in the corner.”
Tuesday, 29 October, Marrakech: (My mother’s birthday on the Gregorian calendar.) N’zaha, continued; Rachid visited; Résidence d’Atlas; lunch at N’zaha; souk, including Souk Souafine; bought audio adapter for Samir in Canaria; N’zaha again with Samir, Polly and Hicham.
Wednesday, 30 October, Marrakech: N’zaha, continued; I spilled Coca Light on Samir; visited Belhaj as it was broken down; bumped into Cherif and Âbdel-something; lunch with Samir at N’zaha; bumped into goofy-looking Mohammed at Djemaâ al-Fna, and he visited; hidden Internet place with Samir; Samir visited.
Thursday, 31 October, Marrakech: (Halloween.) Samir’s visit, continued; Djemaâ al-Fna: various restaurants; bumped into Âbdel-something again, and he visited; Marjane with Polly; dinner at Mbarek; bought gandouras at Âbdelâli’s store; tea at Belhaj; shared figs and apricots; souk.
Saturday, 26 October, Marrakech: reunion of old friends at Belhaj restaurant, Djemaâ al-Fna; visited Âzize’s house with Âbdelrahim; moved to next temporary apartment with crazy Moustafa and Âdel; met Mr. Hassane; N’zaha restaurant, tea with Âbdelâli in his new store, Djemaâ al-Fna.
Sunday, 27 October, Marrakech: Belhaj, Djemaâ al-Fna; Âzize and Âbdelrahim visited our apartment; Mr. Hassane: man in towel at Yasmine building; Samir visited.
Monday, 28 October, Marrakech: Samir’s visit; purchased telephone from Samir at N’zaha; dinner at Belhaj; visited Mbarek restaurant; N’zaha: Âbdelhadi, returned broken telephone to Samir, “belching in the corner.”
Tuesday, 29 October, Marrakech: (My mother’s birthday on the Gregorian calendar.) N’zaha, continued; Rachid visited; Résidence d’Atlas; lunch at N’zaha; souk, including Souk Souafine; bought audio adapter for Samir in Canaria; N’zaha again with Samir, Polly and Hicham.
Wednesday, 30 October, Marrakech: N’zaha, continued; I spilled Coca Light on Samir; visited Belhaj as it was broken down; bumped into Cherif and Âbdel-something; lunch with Samir at N’zaha; bumped into goofy-looking Mohammed at Djemaâ al-Fna, and he visited; hidden Internet place with Samir; Samir visited.
Thursday, 31 October, Marrakech: (Halloween.) Samir’s visit, continued; Djemaâ al-Fna: various restaurants; bumped into Âbdel-something again, and he visited; Marjane with Polly; dinner at Mbarek; bought gandouras at Âbdelâli’s store; tea at Belhaj; shared figs and apricots; souk.
25 October 2002
Last half-week in Egypt, Wednesday, 23–Friday, 25 October
Wednesday, 23 October, Cairo: Hana restaurant (Zamalek); visited Fathi Hamamah’s factory and met his son Musa‘at(?); searched for Blal’s boxing match.
Thursday, 24 October, Cairo: Dr. Ragab’s Phara‘onic Village; discovered too late Ahmad from the Bronx was also in Cairo; goodbyes and propositions at Khan al-Khalili.
Friday, 25 October, Cairo: Horus House hôtel, airplane to Morocco.
Thursday, 24 October, Cairo: Dr. Ragab’s Phara‘onic Village; discovered too late Ahmad from the Bronx was also in Cairo; goodbyes and propositions at Khan al-Khalili.
Friday, 25 October, Cairo: Horus House hôtel, airplane to Morocco.
22 October 2002
Second week in Egypt, Wednesday, 16–Tuesday, 22 October
Wednesday, 16 October, Cairo: (World Food Day and Boss’s Day.)
Thursday, 17 October, Cairo: Train to Aswan.
Friday, 18 October, Aswan: Aswan Station; Hôtel as-Salam; dam; Philae complex; unfinished obelisk; Chief Khalil restaurant; Nubian Museum.
Saturday, 19 October, Aswan, Abu Simbel: (Sweetest Day.) Felucca ride around Elephantine Island; Kitchener’s Island; Abu Simbel; Sami in the souq.
Sunday, 20 October: Aswan, Luxor: Shady Hôtel; East Bank: Luxor, Karnak temples; café with Walid, Ahmad, Mamduh; wandering with them and ‘Ala’.
Monday, 21 October, Luxor: West Bank: Valleys of Kings, Queens; temple of “Hot Chicken Soup”; locked out of room at Shady Hôtel; market/storefront; train to Cairo.
Tuesday, 22 October, Cairo: Khan al-Khalili/Muski: met Blal, ‘Amber store with Dracula, ad-Dahan, met Mustafa and friends with sexually agressive sales pitches.
Thursday, 17 October, Cairo: Train to Aswan.
Friday, 18 October, Aswan: Aswan Station; Hôtel as-Salam; dam; Philae complex; unfinished obelisk; Chief Khalil restaurant; Nubian Museum.
Saturday, 19 October, Aswan, Abu Simbel: (Sweetest Day.) Felucca ride around Elephantine Island; Kitchener’s Island; Abu Simbel; Sami in the souq.
Sunday, 20 October: Aswan, Luxor: Shady Hôtel; East Bank: Luxor, Karnak temples; café with Walid, Ahmad, Mamduh; wandering with them and ‘Ala’.
Monday, 21 October, Luxor: West Bank: Valleys of Kings, Queens; temple of “Hot Chicken Soup”; locked out of room at Shady Hôtel; market/storefront; train to Cairo.
Tuesday, 22 October, Cairo: Khan al-Khalili/Muski: met Blal, ‘Amber store with Dracula, ad-Dahan, met Mustafa and friends with sexually agressive sales pitches.
15 October 2002
First week in Egypt, Wednesday, 9–Tuesday, 15 October
Wednesday, 9 October, London, Cairo:
Thursday, 10 October, Cairo: Longchamps Hôtel (Zamalek); Khan al-Khalili (Islamic Cairo); Hamis Travel (Central Cairo).
Friday, 11 October, Cairo:
Saturday, 12 October, Cairo, Memphis, Giza, Saqqara:
Sunday, 13 October: Cairo: Old Cairo.
Monday, 14 October, Cairo: (Columbus Day in the United States.)
Tuesday, 15 October, Cairo:
Thursday, 10 October, Cairo: Longchamps Hôtel (Zamalek); Khan al-Khalili (Islamic Cairo); Hamis Travel (Central Cairo).
Friday, 11 October, Cairo:
Saturday, 12 October, Cairo, Memphis, Giza, Saqqara:
Sunday, 13 October: Cairo: Old Cairo.
Monday, 14 October, Cairo: (Columbus Day in the United States.)
Tuesday, 15 October, Cairo:
30 August 2002
Visit to Sullivan and Orange Counties, Tuesday, 27–Friday, 30 August 2002
Tuesday, 27 August, New York City, Monticello, Hurleyville: Westchester Avenue walk; Hurleyville thrift stores, including Şeyndl’s store; dinner at Brother Bruno’s.
Wednesday, 28 August, Middletown, Westtown: lunch at Wendy’s; Salvation Army store in Middletown; dinner at New York Buffet.
Thursday, 29 August, Monticello: haircut at Golden Clipper and shopping in Gutenberg Holdings, both in Apollo Plaza; dinner at Gager’s; Dollar General Store.
Friday, 30 August, Monticello, New York City: return home.
Wednesday, 28 August, Middletown, Westtown: lunch at Wendy’s; Salvation Army store in Middletown; dinner at New York Buffet.
Thursday, 29 August, Monticello: haircut at Golden Clipper and shopping in Gutenberg Holdings, both in Apollo Plaza; dinner at Gager’s; Dollar General Store.
Friday, 30 August, Monticello, New York City: return home.
21 August 2002
14 August 2002
The Full Monty at the Eugene O’Neill Theâtre, Manhattan, Wednesday, 14 August
Theater Development Fund
TKTS at Father Francis Duffy Square
Lunch at Leo Lindy’s
The Full Monty
The Full Monty
Dinner at Chili’s
Colony Music
TKTS at Father Francis Duffy Square
Lunch at Leo Lindy’s
The Full Monty
The Full Monty
Dinner at Chili’s
Colony Music
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